You bought it because it was cute and cheap. A $9 dress. A $12 hoodie. Maybe a pair of kids' shoes for less than the cost of lunch. But what's actually woven into that fabric? If recent lawsuits and independent lab testing are anything to go by, the answer might be lead, PFAS, formaldehyde, or phthalates - and in some cases, at levels hundreds or even thousands of times above legal safety limits.
This isn't a niche concern. It's a growing public health story - and your closet may already be part of it.
Breaking: The Shein Lawsuit
In February 2026, Texas Attorney General Ken Paxton filed suit against fast-fashion giant Shein, alleging the company sold clothing - including items for newborns, pregnant women, and children - laced with toxic chemicals at levels exceeding safety standards. A 2025 Greenpeace investigation found that 32% of Shein products tested contained hazardous chemicals including lead, PFAS, formaldehyde, and phthalates. One jacket tested at over 3,000x the legal PFAS limit.
8,000+
synthetic chemicals commonly used to produce clothing worldwide
32%
of Shein products tested by Greenpeace exceeded EU chemical safety limits
3,300x
above legal limit - the PFAS level found in one Shein jacket
The SKIMS Conversation
Shein isn't the only major brand under the microscope. SKIMS - Kim Kardashian's shapewear brand valued at $4 billion - has also faced serious scrutiny, and the concerns go beyond just the environment.
SKIMS products are primarily made from virgin nylon, spandex, and polyester - all petroleum-based synthetic fibers. Some products contain as much as 95% nylon. These are the exact materials that raise red flags when worn tight against skin for extended periods.
The bigger issue is transparency. According to Remake's 2024 accountability report, SKIMS has not aligned itself with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals program and has released no hazardous chemicals or wastewater data. In that same report, SKIMS ranked last out of 52 of the biggest fashion companies for transparency, traceability, and overall accountability - scoring lower than even Shein in some categories.
SKIMS + Greenwashing
SKIMS packaging has carried claims like "I am not plastic" and "I will biodegrade in your home compost" - but the Changing Markets Foundation found the packaging is made from low-density polyethylene, a type 4 plastic. The bottom line: SKIMS has not disclosed what chemicals are used in its fabric production, has not published supply chain data, and has received the lowest possible rating from ethical fashion reviewers. Until that changes, consumers have no way to verify what they're actually wearing.
What Chemicals Are We Talking About?
Toxic clothing isn't just a fast-fashion problem - it exists across price points. But brands with minimal oversight and zero chemical disclosure are the biggest culprits. Here are the chemicals that keep showing up in independent testing:
PFAS
Forever ChemicalsUsed in water-resistant, stain-proof, and wrinkle-free fabrics. PFAS never break down in the body or environment. Linked to certain cancers, hormone disruption, immune damage, and reduced fertility.
Lead
Heavy Metal in Dyes & FabricsFound in clothing dyes and synthetic fabrics. Causes brain, kidney, heart, and reproductive damage. Children are especially vulnerable.
Formaldehyde
Wrinkle-Free & Anti-Shrink FinishesClassified as a carcinogen by the EPA. Can cause skin irritation, respiratory issues, and myeloid leukemia with long-term exposure.
Phthalates
Plasticizers in Synthetic FabricsFound in polyester, nylon, PVC, and printed clothing. Disrupt hormones and linked to developmental issues, asthma, cancer, and reproductive problems.
Azo Dyes
Synthetic Colorants (Banned in the EU)Make up over two-thirds of all synthetic dyes. Many are carcinogenic and mutagenic. Banned in Europe but still widely used elsewhere.
NPEs
Textile Manufacturing DetergentsNonylphenol ethoxylates are still widely used in textile production. Known hormone disruptors linked to birth defects and reproductive harm.
"The concentration of chemicals that we find in clothing may not cause acute toxic problems for the wearer in the short-term... you don't know what the impact of long-term exposure is on human health."
- Greenpeace Researcher on Textile Chemicals
How to Check If Your Clothes Are Toxic
You don't need a lab to start protecting yourself. Here are the most practical ways to evaluate your wardrobe - from a quick sniff test to looking for certified labels.
01
The Smell TestA strong chemical odor - think pickles, formaldehyde, or disinfectant - is one of the easiest warning signs. If the smell lingers after washing, that's a red flag. These chemicals are designed to stay in the fabric.
02
Read the Label - Really Read ItSynthetic materials like polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex, and PVC are more likely to carry toxic chemical treatments. Watch for "wrinkle-free," "stain-resistant," or "flame-retardant" - these almost always mean chemical treatments.
03
The Water Droplet Test for PFASDrop a small bead of water onto the fabric. If it beads up and rolls around leaving no trace, the fabric has likely been treated with PFAS. If it soaks in, the fabric is likely untreated.
04
Try a UV Light ScanShine a UV/blacklight over your clothing. Fabric treated with waterproofing or wrinkle-resistant chemicals will often fluoresce. Particularly useful on jackets, outdoor gear, and stain-resistant items.
05
Use an At-Home Fabric Testing KitAvailable online, these kits detect substances like formaldehyde and chlorine. A worthwhile investment especially for children's clothing, underwear, or activewear worn close to skin.
06
Look for Trusted CertificationsThe most reliable indicator that a garment has been independently tested for harmful substances. Look for these on the label or brand website:
OEKO-TEX Standard 100Every component tested and verified free from harmful substances.
GOTS CertifiedGlobal Organic Textile Standard covering organic fibers and the entire processing chain.
bluesignResponsible chemical management throughout production.
Cradle to CradleMaterial health certification evaluating chemical safety.
07
Research the Brand's TransparencyBrands that take chemical safety seriously are open about their supply chain and production. If you can't find any information, that's a warning sign - as we've seen with SKIMS, a brand's silence often speaks louder than its marketing.
What Are the Safer Alternatives?
Knowing what to avoid is only half the battle. Here are the best fabric alternatives - including options for the trickiest category of all: shapewear.
Organic Cotton
Best For: Everyday Wear, Loungewear, Kids ClothingGrown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. Soft, breathable, and widely available with GOTS certification. One of the cleanest swaps for any item worn close to skin.
Linen
Best For: Warm Weather, Dresses, Tops, PantsOne of the oldest and cleanest fabrics on earth. Grows naturally with minimal water and no pesticides. Gets softer with every wash and can last decades.
Tencel / Lyocell
Best For: Activewear, Dresses, Soft BasicsMade from wood pulp in a closed-loop system. Incredibly soft, moisture-wicking, and biodegradable. A strong alternative to polyester in activewear.
Hemp
Best For: Denim, Outerwear, Durable BasicsGrows without pesticides, regenerates soil, and requires far less water than cotton. Gets softer over time and is naturally antimicrobial.
Econyl Nylon
Best For: Shapewear, Swimwear, ActivewearNylon regenerated from ocean plastic and fishing nets. Still synthetic but far cleaner than virgin nylon - the best option when stretch is non-negotiable.
OEKO-TEX Blends
Best For: Shapewear, Bras, Compression GarmentsYou may not be able to avoid spandex and nylon entirely in shapewear - but OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification means every component has been independently tested and verified safe. This is the minimum standard to look for in any tight-fitting garment.
Quick Reference: Red Flags in Your Wardrobe
Be cautious if your clothing: smells strongly chemical even after washing · is marketed as "wrinkle-free," "stain-resistant," or "water-proof" · is made from polyester, PVC, nylon, or acrylic · came from a brand with zero chemical transparency · is children's sleepwear without CPSC flame resistance labeling · has no certifications listed
This article is for informational purposes. For professional textile testing, consult a certified laboratory. Sources include Texas AG Office, Greenpeace, Nordic Council, and Remake 2024 Accountability Report.
